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Tip pro trénink

Anaerobní vytrvalost

Díky bohatému přísunu nových i starých lezeckých časopisů z Britských ostrovů se mi do ruky dostala příloha časopisu High Training Masterclass od Neila Greshama.

Snad se mému kamarádovi Patrikovi dále podaří unikat cizinecké polici, aby tento přísun neustal.  Nalezl jsem v ní několik zajímavých tipů pro trénink a časem je snad dodám sem na Lezce. Dnes to bude o anaerobním tréninku. Pro jistotu odkazuji na základní informace o tréninku zde na Lezci ve starších článcích a na výbornou Tefelnerovu knihu Trénink sportovního lezce.


TRÉNINK ANAEROBNÍ VYTRVALOSTI

Lezecká vytrvalost

Nejdříve musíme rozdělit lezecký vytrvalostní trénink na dvě kategorie. Za prvé na trénink anaerobní vytrvalosti, která je potřebná na „střední tratě“, jinak řečeno na středně dlouhé cesty do 15 až 18 m, skládající se z 15 až 30 kroků bez evidentně odpočinkových míst, kde výkon trvá 40 sekund až 3 minuty. Druhým typem jsou delší cesty, které se lezou déle než 5 minut a kde můžete laktát nahromaděný ve svalech částečně odbourat v odpočinkových místech, nebo v nich nejsou tak těžké pohyby, aby docházelo k  nadměrnému zakyselení. Tato vytrvalost se označuje jako anaerobně-aerobní a o jejím tréninku se někdy jindy.

Anaerobní vytrvalost

V cestách, kde je třeba anaerobní vytrvalost, padáte jen proto, že na ně pořádně netrénujete. Kroky v nich jsou těžké a intenzivní, děláte je dobře a najednou spadnete s pocitem, že to bylo něco mezi silovým selháním v bouldru a vyčerpáním v dlouhé cestě. Podle toho můžete snadno sestavit trénink na normálních umělých stěnách, tak i na bouldrovkách. Chce to cesty dlouhé 15 až 30 kroků. Většina lezců na umělých stěnách na takových cestách trénuje a dělají velmi rychlé pokroky. Při zachování základních principů sportovního tréninku můžete dostat své schopnosti skrz výkonnostní strop.

Intervalový trénink

Jak často už jste slyšeli „no pain, no gain“ (doslova: žádná bolest, žádné zlepšení)? Opravdu mnoho lezců věří, že vyčerpání až za hranici selhání, je jediná cesta k úspěchu. Když uděláš krok zpět a podíváš se do základních teorií anaerobního tréninku, budeš překvapen, co vše jsi dělal špatně. V tréninku anaerobního laktátového energetického systému pro všechny sporty je nejdůležitější najít správný poměr mezi objemem a intenzitou. Často lezci zkouší příliš těžké cesty a díky předčasnému vyčerpání neodtrénují požadovaný objem. Nebo naopak  lezete cesty příliš lehké a ani vám nenateče. Je to jednoduchá rovnovážná rovnice.  Začnete-li na příliš těžkých cestách, končíte vyčerpáni v cestách, na kterých se běžně rozlézáte. Místo toho zvolte cesty ležící pod vaším maximem, řekněme o stupeň lehčí. V těchto cestách byste měli padat až na konci tréninku, kdy už máte odlezen potřebný objem.
Každý se diví, proč mají francouzští lezci tak dobrou vytrvalost. Je to proto, že v jejich poměrně jednoduchém pojetí tréninku objetují  2/3 času něčemu, co my Britové ignorujeme – intervalovému tréninku.

Krok za krokem intervalovým tréninkem v lezení

1. Vytvořte si vhodné vyrovnané cesty nebo kolečka přibližně o 15 krocích. V tréninku se je snažte přelézt 6 až 8 krát s 2 minutovým odpočinkem, ideální je silové selhání na konci 7. série. Trefíte-li dobře obtížnost, dosáhnete požadovaného efektu velmi snadno. Doporučuje se o stupeň lehčí obtížnost, než je tvůj nejlepší On sight.
2. Když úspěšně vydržíte všech 8 sérií, můžete v dalším období zvýšit jejich počet na 9 až 10, pak na 12 a nakonec na 14.
3. Když se vám podaří vydržet všech 14 sérií, snižte odpočinek na 1 minutu a lezte opět jen 6 až 8 sérií. Se zvyšováním výkonnosti znovu zvyšujte počet sérií dle předchozího modelu: 9-10, pak 12.
Pokud dokáže absolvovat takový trénink, vaše anaerobní vytrvalost je jistě na vyšší úrovni než na začátku. V dalším cyklu experimentujte s delšími cestami do 30 kroků anebo s cestami o něco těžšími. Veďte si poctivě tréninkový deník a zaznamenávejte si počty kroků, série a délky odpočinků. Důležité je zachovat posloupnost a od lehčího se prokousávat k těžšímu.

Tipy pro lepší intervalový trénink

Když vás nebaví opakovaně lézt jednu cestu nebo kolo, není důvod, proč nekombinovat v sériích více cest různé délky a obtížnosti.  Můžete se i snažit o intervalový trénink na skále nebo v částech svého RP projektu.  Nezapomínejte, že intervalový trénink je velmi intenzivní. Tři tréninky za týden jsou dostačující a trénujte jen dobře odpočatí. Také je důležité správné rozložení aerobního vytrvalostního tréninku a intervalového tréninku pro anaerobní vytrvalost v průběhu tréninkového období.

Tabulka intervalů pro anaerobní trénink

Lez. čas(s).............40.............60............90..........120
Počet kroků...........12.............18............26..........34
Odpočinek (min.).1až2..........3až5..........4až10........5až15
Počet sérií.........6až14...........5až12.........4až10.......4až8
(tabulka upravena z  D. R. Lamba, Fyziologie cvičení, 1984)


(volně přeloženo z Neil Gresham´s Training masterclass)


Doplnění

Proti kapitole Speciální vytrvalostní anaerobní trénink (Tefelner, 1999) se v tomto článku mnoho nového nedozvíte. Anaerobní trénink je poslední část speciálního tréninkového období a musí mu předcházet řádně odtrénovaná předchozí část tohoto období (maximálka a speciální anaerobně-aerobní vytrvalost) a všeobecné tréninkové období. Jeho celková doba by neměla překročit 6 týdnů za makrocyklus. Přínosný je postup uvedený v Krok za krokem… a uvedená tabulka. Objemy vypočtené z tabulky odpovídají obvykle uváděným 100 až 300 krokům za trénink. Obecně by mělo platit, čím méně kroků v cestě (i v tréninku), tím by měly být těžší (= vyšší intenzita) a naopak. Udané odpočinky se mohou někomu zdát dlouhé, ale polezete-li opravdu těžké cesty, budou odpovídající, běžně se udává odpočinkový čas 1 až 3 krát delší než lezecký čas. Chce to vyzkoušet a nalézt nejvhodnější individuální řešení. Pro zintenzivnění a zpestření tréninku několik rad na závěr:
1. Vytvořte si více tréninkových cest, některé vyrovnané, jiné gradující.
2. Vytvořte si kontrolní projekt, abyste poznali zlepšení. Např. 20 krokovou cestu, kde zpočátku padáte při 15. kroku a časem se propracujete k topu. Pokus zařaďte v 2. nebo 3. sérii a dejte si po něm o něco delší odpočinek.
3. Imitace cvakání na bouldrovce. Všichni znáte, jak rychle dochází síla při cvakání jištění, kdy jedna ruka musí déle fixovat na chytu. Rozvěste po stěně pár expresek (Do čeho? Něco vymyslíte.), kolem pasu 3 m kus lana a během lezení procvakávejte presa. Když už nebudete mít magi na cvaknutí, zahrajte si na morálistu dolezte co nejdál, důležitější je odlézt požadovaný počet kroků. Brzy si zlepšíte techniku cvakání a naučíte se cvakat u pasu, což do skal přenesou jen ti méně bojácní.
4. Foot off lezení je velmi intenzivní tréninkový prostředek. Vyzkoušejte si lezení jen po rukou na 15 a vícekrokových problémech, ale jen při dostatečné výkonnosti, dokonale rozcvičení a rozlezení. Evidentně odpočinková místa pak najdete velmi těžko. Na campus boardu je to podobné, ale ne tak pohybově pestré.
5. Pro anaerobní trénink platí, že někdy méně znamená více, takže s rozumem. Při tomto tréninku se můžete velmi snadno přetrénovat.

David Chudoba   [úpravy] 08:24 21.11.2002Tisk 

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Komentáře

Nový komentář 

 Tohle chapu
Je to hezky napsany, teda vlastne pekne prelozeny, teda vlastne vybral jsi Davide docela fajn clanek a srozumitelne jsi ho prelozil. Ze bych to podel nej zkusil ?
Zapsal: JirkaS, 10:07:41 21.11.2002
 Chápu...
...jen si myslím, že coby studovaný pedagog bys mohl vysvětlit pojmy, ne jen tupě přeložit či opsat. Hlavně rozdíl aerobní x anaerobní. Jsou i lidi, kteří začínají a TV nestudovali - i já.
Zapsal: Kája, 22:14:49 21.11.2002
 Bomba!!!
Díky Davide, jak už tady psal Standa, kéž by bylo více takových článků. Díky
Zapsal: študent, 06:23:35 22.11.2002
 Pro Káju
Proto jsem tam psal, že pro jistotu odkazuji na starší články na Lezci od Jirky Siky a na Tefelnera. Pokusím se ale v dalším článku se k tomu vrátit a krapet to osvětlit.
Zapsal: Bída, 09:37:00 22.11.2002
 Dost gut!!
Super, bomba. Před zahájením zimní přípravy na stěně TUL Harcov mě nemohl potkalt lepší článek. Pevně věřím, že to pomůže překonat můj problém, který jsi přesně definova. Lezu, lezu a nejednou letím. dojde mi jakoby z ničeho nic. Jen houšť podobné články. Díky Ti za něj.
Zapsal: Šéba, 12:10:23 22.11.2002
 Upozornění!
Popisovaný trénink je až na vrcholu tréninkové pyramidy. Tento článek jsem sem dal, protože byl v oné publikaci nejzajímavější. V podstatě jsem udělal metodickou chybu. Bez řádně odtrénovaného všeobecného období a bez poctivě odtrénované předcházející části speciálního období si jenom uškodíte! Anaerobní trénink se používá na vrcholu přípravy, pak má následovat tzv. vylaďovací období, při kterém se sníží celkový objem a lehce intenzita. Teprve toto období vás vyžene do vrcholné formy, protože si v něm relativně odpočinete. Pak děj se vůle boží.
Než zkusíte trénovat AN vytrvalost, přečtěte si články na Lezci (tip článků: trénink a metodika) a naplánujte si trénink. Já urychleně dopisuji další článek o vytrvalosti, hlavně o anaerobně-aerobní.
Zapsal: Bída, 12:49:41 22.11.2002
 Hustota
tak vam tedy reknu, ze to je dosti husty, ze vy asi budete sportovni lezci :-)))?
Zapsal: Trava, 08:56:56 25.11.2002
 Re:Re:Trava
Jak si to uhod makaci?:-)
Zapsal: Trava, 17:16:10 26.11.2002
 
panecku, podle ohlasu soudim, ze ve svetovym poharu pribide poradna particka cehunu...:))
Zapsal: michal, 09:18:12 28.11.2002
 Qesčn
Díky za super článek. Možná by bylo dobré objasnit, kdy lezeš anaerobně a kdy je výkon anaerobně-aerobní. Mám namysli souvislost s dalším článkem právě o anaerobně-aerobním výkonu, kde je vpodstatě určen 100% výkon resp. zátěž, což si člověk už představit dokáže.
Zapsal: Marťas, 11:30:05 15.02.2006
 GnDEEFZPf
Great Job Jordan!!! Hope Jen and Tim read these. It has been a while. Jazz is adorable and you two seem to be more in love than 8 years ago. OMG, has it relaly been 8 years???Lisa
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