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Skalkař versus písek...

2. Klasifikace a magnézium

Může se vám zdát, že jsem se v předchozí části příliš zabýval klasifikací cest a že co je psáno, to je dáno. Jenže písek není vynýtované vápno, kde to maximálně nepřelezete. Pokud v průvodcích lítá hodnocení obtížnosti až o tři písmena, může to pro někoho být fatální záležitost. Další věc jsou RP přelezy. Odpor klasiků k uvádění obtížnosti RP přelezu docela chápu. Nechápu ale, proč jim vadí i u přímých linií, kde lano skálu nijak nedře. Ono se po posezení v jištění přelézá těch „pár“ metrů k dalšímu kruhu poněkud snáze. Například na Křížáku si můžete podle nového průvodce přelézt několik místních VIIa, která by v Sasku byla za VIIa, nebo VIIb, ale také VIIc, a RP možná VIIIa. Až se pár nešťastníků zrakví, možná v tom zas někdo udělá pořádek. To se například povedlo v novém průvodci na Labák, kde je to všechno vůči Sasku podhodnocené rovnoměrně a kde víte , co můžete od místního VIIb čekat. Prostě jste připravený, že to nebude zadarmo, ale že to bude super a že si pak se stejnou námahou vylezete v reichu pár VIIIa.


To jsou ale panorámata - Žleb - poslal Jirous

O magnéziu toho už bylo v časopisech napsáno dost. Někde se toleruje, jinde ne, oficiálně je prý zakázáno všude. V Sasku vám napaří pokutu, u nás občas někdo poprosí, ať to schováte, ale v cestách tak od VIIIc vás nechají na pokoji. Je pravda, že maglajzovat v pětkách je blbost, ale v VIIa se to někdy šikne, zvlášť když ani nevíte za kolik to vlastně je. Maglajz v cestách vám taky může pomoci při výběru cest. Obílené jsou častěji lezené a o těch neobílených s pavučinami a rzí chlupatými kruhy si v hospodě vyslechnete ještě po x letech.


Batole v Cestě pro mámu VIIIA, Tisá - fotil John

V nových pravidlech lezení na pískovcových skalách jsem slovo magnezium nenašel. Asi jsem hledal blbě. Je tam řečeno, že je zakázáno lézt s prostředky poškozujícími skálu. Ještě nikdy nikdo nedokázal, co skálu poškozuje více, jestli magnézium nebo lidský pot. Výroky typu: „Když se potíte strachy, tak tam nelezte!“ mě nepřesvědčí. V pravidlech  některých průvodců, např. Hruboskalsko, Skály na Mužském, Suché skály, je magnézium výslovně zakázáno. Je to kvůli výjimce Ministerstva životního prostředí povolující lezení v chráněných územích. V tomto případě používání magnézia dobře zvažte. Pokud budete prášit i v těchto oblastech, připravte se na nečekané zážitky. Kdy se v dnešním asertivním světě odreagujete nečekaným stáhnutím z výstupu kolemjdoucím klasikem, následnou hádkou a někdy i bitkou. I přesto, že jste většinou namakaní atleti, pouštět se do nejen slovního zápolení s nějakým spárařem není nejlepší nápad.

David Chudoba   [úpravy] 07:59 30.04.2002Tisk 

Reklama:


Související články:

Komentáře

Nový komentář 

 Probůh
Snad ne zase diskuse o maglajzu?
Zapsal: Anita, 08:51:27 30.04.2002
 Co tím chtěl autor říci?
Proboha, k čemu takto napsaný článek? Je o všem a dohromady o ničem. Nechtěl bych aby diskuze tady byla mlácením prázdné slámy, je to snad jediné místo na cesko-slovenských lezeckých webech kde se muzu i neco dovedet. Navíc článek není původní,
stejný je na www.climber.cz. Nejde o grafomanii?
Zapsal: Pavel, 08:59:20 30.04.2002
 Nehaň
Hele Pavle, já chápu, že ty jsi určitě dlouholetej zkušenej pískař a tyhle články ti nic novýho do života nepřinesou. Tim se snad nechci dotknout tvého lezeckého smyšlení, ale pochop, že pro mě - pro člověka, pro kterýho je písek další meta, je takovejhle článek jako stvořenej.
Ne snad, že by plnil přísně informativní úlohu, ale prostě zbourá nějaký mýty který o písku znám. Taky se něco dozvím a budu vědět na co si dát bacha. Takže nehaň.
A mimochodem, už v prvním díle byl odkaz na Climbera, tak klídek. Měj se.
Zapsal: Ondra, 11:07:08 30.04.2002
 re: rejpalove
Abych predesel pripadnym slovnim prestrelkam pod timto clankem, predesilam, ze tento clanek, podobne jako i posledni treti dil mel David napsany uz drive, nez se rozjela silena diskuze pod prvnim dilem. Je mi jasne ze sem by se hodila vice, ale doufam ze jste si sve vasne jiz vybili a tak prosim uz ne vice. Trochu jsem tedy vahal jestli tento dil take uverejnit, ale myslim ze je opet vyborne ctivy a tak by bylo skoda nechat ho v supliku. Radeji jsem ale uverejnil uz i treti dil z Davidova cyklu, pro ty, kdo jsou jako Pavel a takovyto clanek jim nestaci. Kdo vi, zda se ale takovym lidem da zavdecit. No ale mozna jste na spatne adrese a mozna bude lepsi zkusit treba treba server www.dama.cz :).
No ano, serial vychazi i na serveru www.climber.cz, jeho autor ho uverejnuje na obou serverech. Fotky jsou ale vsude jine, takze urcite stoji za to zkouknout obe varianty.
Zapsal: Hop, 11:38:54 30.04.2002
 Re: pavel
Pavle, jsi hnup!!!
Zapsal: Kazbunda, 11:39:16 30.04.2002
 re:re: rejpalove
A dobře si udělal (žes je uveřejnil zároveň). Sice sme se už trochu vybouřili, ale co kdyby náhodou :-)
A Pavle, mě nepříjde zbytečnej. I když v něm sice nenajdu pro sebe nic novýho, můžu předpokládat, že třeba bude užitečnej někomu jinýmu.
A navíc větička o nemoudrosti zápolení s nějakým spárařem mi dokonce přišla dost ftipná (ale to možná jen proto, že sem jich pár viděl naživo - dokonce sem jedno léto podnikl krajně neúspěšný pokus se k nim přiřadit - teda jako naučit se spáry, takže sem ten rok strávil v Ádru víc víkendů než předtím a potom za celou dobu co lezu. a výsledek se brzy dostavil - zlomil sem si nohu a bylo po trénování).
Zapsal: Tomáš F, 13:05:22 30.04.2002
 Ad maglajs
Jen drobná poznámka. Koukne-li se kdokoli do jakéhokoli průvodce, uvidí tam chlapa s pytlem maglajzu buď na titulní straně, nebo i na fotkách uvnitř. (Tisá, Labák, etc. snad i Sušky)

A tady se rozpoutala debata, že maglajzovat to jo, ale jen od VIIIb atp. Proč? Co bych si nevzal pytel do šestkový plotny v Tisý? Prostě sem se rozhodl, že ho tam potřebuju, protože je to vopocený a basta. Mám snad na to snad menší nárok než ten, kdo leze za devět?

Berg Heil in Sudeten
Papouš
Zapsal: Papouš, 14:01:22 30.04.2002
 Když já musím...
Drahý Papouši,
stejně je jako na jiném materiálu neetické stoupat na nejty či borháky, je neetické užívat na písku maglajs. Když uvidím stát nějakýho borce na obálce Montany na nejtu, taky si na něj nestoupnu, ale řeknu si, že ten borec je vůl. Howgh...
Zapsal: Ondra, 15:09:23 30.04.2002
 Nonono... (Re JirkaS)
Hele, Jirko, sice chapu cos tím chtěl říct a teda místy souhlas, ale: pH 5 není dryák.
Kyselina glutaminová neexistuje, buď kyselina glutamová nebo glutamin.
Jak kyselina asparagová tak glutamová jsou aminokyseliny. Tohle slovo už jistě znáte z humusných nápojů... Mléčná se nám vylučuje do svalů když moc usilujeme a močová je na vylučování dusíku z těla.
Neodvažuji se tady odhadovat, jaké z uvedených látek se zneutralizují atp. je to poměrně složité, ale všechny uvedené kyseliny se řadí do slabých organických, pokud mi paměť slouží. Takže klídek, hombre... (Sorry pokud jsou tu ještě nepřesnosti)
Zapsal: Ivucha, 11:49:04 02.05.2002
 Kyselost potu - komentar
Souhlasim s Ivuchou. Kdyby byl pot takový dryják jak ho líčí JirkaS, spíš by slezla kůže, něž se rozpustila skála. Jo a vápenec by pod rukama šuměl. Nejsme přece Vetřelci... Takže ještě jednou klídek ...
Zapsal: Zdenek, 12:37:55 07.05.2002
 Lezci jsou Vetrelci
Nejsem chemik, ale slozeni zkusebniho roztoku jsem si z prstu nevycucal. Je to podle normy, jak se zkousi odolnost materialu vuci potu.
Zkus se podivat zblizka na chyty casto lezenych cest. Jsme bohuzel vetrelci a skaly nicime. Osobne se domnivam, ze ti, kteri nemaji vysusene ruce magneziem skodi skale vice.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 13:35:49 07.05.2002
 PS
Voda z kohoutku ma pH kolem 5,4. Ta co prsi je na tom podobne. Takze by uz byly skaly rozpustene.... ..to jen tak. Nicmene lepsi maglajz nez pot.
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